The sight of snow in the month of April, as temperature in Delhi soared to 43°C, was spectacular to say the least. I felt dizzy with excitement as though high on ecstasy or some of the local stuff that was being sold a few slopes below.
Bitten by the adventure travel bug and charmed by photographs of snow covered hills, two of my friends and I planned a trek this April. Our three day weekend plan, in a gist, had been to reach Mcleodganj, trek for 4 hours up to Triund, pitch a tent there, trek for another 2 hours to Laqa Got, have a snow ball fight there and then run down hill to catch the last bus home. We live to tell the tale.
Triund is a grassy plateau at a height of 2975 m above sea level, approx 9km from Mcleodganj, in Himachal Pradesh. From Triund onwards trees diminish and hills covered with burnt grass lead to Laqa Got, 3350 metres high. From here on, shepherds and trekkers can move on to Indrahar Pass to cross over to the Chamba Valley.
It was a long weekend holiday for us. An overnight train and a bus brought us from Delhi to Mcleod. After purchasing essentials at Mcleod, dividing food amongst ourselves and not feeling very light we started walking. We had the option of taking an auto or a taxi to the point where the trek begins. We however decided to cut through a pine forest on foot and reach the same spot. No regrets regarding the decision now but back then we huffed, puffed and cribbed.

A gradual climb of 1500 mts from McLeod Ganj leads to Triund. There are two ways of reaching this high ridge. The regular, well-established path used by both tourists and the local Gaddi people runs through the Dharamkot village, 3km from Mcleod. Another route leads up from the Bhagsu Nag waterfall through dense wilderness.
We took the road most often travelled by. However, having started late in the day we didn’t notice any other trekkers trudging the same path. We did meet a lot of people returning from Triund top though. On having enquired we realized that some of them had left Mcleod at 9am. An ideal time to begin if you intend returning by 7pm or so because one doesn’t want to be caught in the dark on an unknown territory with sharp stones.
The trek is typically supposed to take 4 hours. But it took our group an embarrassing 7 hours to get uphill. I would like to believe that’s it because each of us were carrying bags stuffed with food and blankets and we took turns carrying the tent which slowed us down a great deal. The truth probably being that our city smoke-filled lungs and unaccustomed legs simply could not perform better. More regular trekkers, a large number of them being foreigners, were seen practically running up and down the hill.
Our cause was not helped by the fact that I made it a point to stop at every turn to shoot a picture of what lay above, below, in front and all around.
Triund being one of the more popular treks for first time trekkers and casual adventure seekers, we possible encountered a good representation of the human population. We met locals, foreigners, middle-aged couples, student groups and families with kids not more than 10years old. With the sheer number of foreigners in Mcleod and the areas around we had to make a conscious effort to remind ourselves that we were still on Indian territory.
Our journey was broken up by short breaks of increasing frequency to catch our breath and fuel our bodies. We guzzled down peach ice teas and chomped on cheese slices. Sometimes, I think, we agreed to move our muscles only because we looked forward to the next fuel stop.
Finally, after what seemed like eternity we came across the “oldest chai shop; since 1984 – exactly halfway between Mcleod and Triund”. Maggi and bread-omlette serve as staple diet for trekkers at these heights. The 5 cafes we encountered, including the ones at Triund and Laqa, all specialized in these dishes. Easy to source and cook these dishes give maximum energy and keep hunger at bay the longest.
With increased demand and limited supply, prices of goods had almost tripled on these hills. However, as one of the shop owners observed, `it is no mean task to fetch supply from a town more than 11 km, set up shop at and serve customers at 3000 meters high to make a living’. We were most grateful they made us feel as comfortable as possible.
We reached Triund top well after dark. After sun set, two torch lights and some loud laughter were our only guide to the top. Most excited about the tent we had carried all the way up, we pegged the tent as soon as we reached.
After a hard day’s work we entered one of the only 3 shacks at Triund to feed on omelettes and Maggi and after the 3 course meal we sat down for a chat with the shack owner and a couple of other locals. About 50 trekkers had come to Triund top that day we were told. In winters, when the area receivs heavy snow, mostly foreigners attempt a visit along with their special gears.

Sitting around a fire, we talked with the boys for a while about our experiences and theirs. One of them had been to Rajasthan, far, far away from Triund, and spoke eloquently on the differences between life on the hills and city life. He said, due to the conditions on the hills `if anyone is in trouble here people will go to extremes to help. But it is not so in the city. A man could be dying and people wouldn’t be bothered.’ Having planned a weekend escape from Delhi and charmed by what we had seen so far we couldn’t agree more.
As the night progressed, the wind got cooler and stronger on Triund top. The temperature would dip to 4C that night, the local shop owner told us. It had snowed here just two nights ago.
I could not believe how cold it was outside nor how cozily we lay inside the tent with two blankets beneath us and two blankets tucked around us. The cold was easy to deal with. The roaring wind straight out of Wizard of Oz, however, was another matter altogether. It was difficult to sleep with the wind hitting hard against our tent covers all night. Even though I knew the tent had been securely pegged down, the thought of the cover being ripped off from over our heads seemed plausible and not very pleasant.
Around midnight, I restrained myself for as long as possible from stepping out to answer nature’s call . Finally, cloaked in a blanket, I unzipped the tent door and stepped into the powerful and chilly swirling mountain wind. What a sight! Twenty odd steps ahead of me the plateau came to sudden halt. On the other side, beyond the Kangra valley, lay the snow covered and moonlit Dhauladhar range – `white mountain’. Not a sole stirred. It was the kind of sight you capture in your heart and believe you have experienced something special that no one else has.
More to follow….